No reptile took the pet trade by storm quite like the Leopard Gecko. They seem to adapt very well, even coming from a middle eastern climate. So, what is the best way to care for these amazing creatures? Let’s jump right in to the care guide!
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Tank size
In my opinion, Leopard geckos SHOULD NOT be housed in anything less than a 15-gallon tank. I recommend 20 gallons for one adult individual, and 10 to 15 additional gallons of space for each additional adult gecko. For example, if 3 geckos are housed together, then there should be no less than 40 gallons of space in the tank, with a recommended 50 gallons of space. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES should an adult male Leopard Gecko be housed with another male gecko. PERIOD. Males, in such closed quarters, will fight, which could cause damage to your lizards, and likely death. Females of the species generally get along, but be weary of them for the first month or so, to verify no additional conflict will erupt.
Substrate
On my channel and generally everywhere online, this has been a highly debated issue, and deserves it’s own page. In general, these are my “criteria” for a good substrate for Leopard Geckos.
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Non-particulate
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Easy to clean
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No dangerous side-effects
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“Naturalistic”
Ok, so you don’t have many options. And while many big-name companies will advertise their brand for your reptile, don’t trust everything you see. Check to first see if the company will put their money behind their product. Believe me, I’ve been a victim of this corporate abuse before. Currently, I DO NOT RECOMMEND: REPTILE CARPET – evidence of nails becoming stuck in carpet, SAND – risk of impaction, and ANY TREE-BASED SUBSTRATE – could prove deadly to your animal. I DO RECOMMEND: Exo Terra’s Sand Mat, Cocoanut Fibre (watch for small granules on your pet’s eyes), and Excavator Clay (once molded).
Décor
I would strongly suggest simply decorating your gecko’s tank with décor your pet will enjoy, and not judge Items on their appearance. Your gecko will need many décor items, so we will go over each one. The first is probably the most important – hides. Reptiles are ectothermic, meaning their body temperature is affected by their surroundings. To give them a place to cool off is essential. In a tank, I recommend having around 3 hides for your gecko; a warm hide, preferably with a UTH (we’ll get into that in a bit); a cool hide, at the other side of the tank; certainly, a must for Leopard Geckos is a moist hide. I Recommend a separate hide as their moist hide with lots of room. It can be as simple as a small zip lock tub with vermiculite at the bottom, so long as it helps them get that shed off! Your gecko will also need a water dish, preferably one that isn’t too big that their humidity rises too high, and too small that it just doesn’t work to get your gecko hydrated. Using a small water dish from exo terra or equivalent will get the job done well!
Feeding
Your gecko needs to eat, and since they’re insectivorous, feeding them crickets, mealworms and super worms is best. But how much and what exactly do you feed them? Remember – feed them only what they can eat in 24 hours, and only what is not wider than the gap between the gecko’s eyes.
Young gecko – less than 5 months
Geckos this small will enjoy baby crickets dusted with calcium and vitamin d3. The d3 helps them digest their calcium, as they have no UVB to help them. You can treat with very few small mealworms, as they may have a tough time digesting them. See how much they will eat in 24 hours by putting in some food until there’s still some the next morning. Feed once every day.
Gecko less than a year old
At less than a year old, depending on the size of the gecko, you can feed everything mentioned before, plus some larger mealworms and waxworms, still occasionally. Slowly increase the amount fed, as they are growing geckos after all.
Geckos 1 year to 2 years
At this stage, large crickets may be offered, keeping in mind the eye-gap rule. Keep checking on your gecko, and remember that animals can change, and the amount of food given may need to change based on health concerns. For example, should your gecko be too fatty,giving less food may be necessary, and vice-versa.
Geckos 2+ years
These animals can basically now be offered super worms. Keep in mind that super worms are fatty, and can make your animal overweight.
Supplementation
To keep a gecko happy and healthy I recommend using calcium with d3 for 60% of a week’s feedings, and alternate the last feeding every week with either a multivitamin supplement (i.e. herptivite) or calcium without d3. Balance is key, as no calcium can kill your gecko, too much calcium with or without d3 can kill your gecko, and if your calcium contains phosphorus, DO NOT USE IT! Get the phosphorus free version. If you use a UVB bulb for your gecko, adjust accordingly.
Heating/Lighting
Your animal must have a day-night cycle. I recommend using an indoor timer for your lights, to help regulate this cycle, as it would happen in nature. Basking lights are discouraged, as Leopard Geckos do not bask. I also recommend investing in a thermostat to help regulate the temperatures in the tank to what is necessary. The consensus is that you should have the gecko’s warm side from 87-90 f and the cool side at between 74-80 f. You can also change it with the seasons, i.e. cooler for the winter, where the cool side is closer to 74 f but NOT PAST THAT! As far as methods of heating, use only under tank heaters (UTH) as they are much safer for the animals, and they can take in the heat through their stomachs, as they do in the wild, to help digest their food. More research is needed in UVB bulbs before I can recommend them.
Remember – If your gecko is showing signs of illness, take it to the vet immediately! Make sure whenever you get an animal you have the resources to take it to the vet, even reptiles like your Leopard Gecko. Finding an exotic animal veterinarian in your area is key BEFORE you purchase your animal.